Turkish Delight

  

 

 After some time finally here the Turkish Ski mountaineering adventures in written format.

Last April/ May a group of 6 adventurers in search of the wild and the white in Eastern Turkey, Anatolia. Alberto, Andoni, Iker, Patxi, Unai and myself flew into to Istanbul and continued in the early hours of the morning with a flight into Erzurum.

 

 

The adventure started already long before we left. We did a lot of research before we departed on this trip but there is very little information available on the eastern part of Turkey. English written info is a hardship and maps are pretty much for main roads only. The only areas that are well known and provide you with some form of mountain map are the Kackar and Ararat. The Kackar guidebook by Kate Clow was most helpful and it contains a reasonable map by Zsiga Gyorgy. For Ararat there is a vague map but to climb Ararat you need a permit and use a local 'guide'. Two out of our team tried the 'local guide approach on the day thing' but got done and decided to attempt it themselves which turned into a bit of an epic. Two Russian guys that we met in Dogubayazit told us they had just come back and used a local guide and porters last minute but..a quarter of the way up the guide and his man decided it was to exhausting for them to make trail (as the snow was waist deep powder) and made base and wouldn't go any higher!!

Overall though during our trip we discovered that the Turkish/Kurds are incredible friendly people and everywhere we went we were welcomed with a warm hard. It was the first time since many years that I traveled to a country where I couldn't speak in their language nor any other language I know. This made the adventure even bigger and more fun as everything was done in sign language or making drawings etc. It also provided us with some scary moments though!! The people live their lives still very much like many hundreds and hundreds of years ago.

 

Our first port of call was Erzurum which is in the center of Anatolia and host the biggest Turkish ski resort Palandoken. We realised that it was famous to the Turkish but not really to foreigners. In Erzurum our first challenge was to hire two vehicles suitable for the mountains. How do you explain that in Turkish? Nobody, but nobody spoke any foreign language and there were only two car hires which were situated next to each other and probably brothers!!! We spend about two hours at the car hire requesting two off road type vehicles or a some sort of minibus but no success the only cars they had were a Skoda and a Suzuki. Asking them about the insurance was a complete mystery to them and in the end we had no idea whether we were insured or not. They got a friend to come round and we had to wait until he was there because apparently he spoke English....and he did one, two, three words. But he was so proud and it was cool! The whole scenario was hilarious because every one out the street came round to look what was going on. All our luggage, mountaineering and ski equipment on the pavement. When we set ourselves down in front of the car hire we were joint by a few locals!!

When we finally got our cars the next challenge was to find somewhere to stay in Erzurum for a night. We thought it a good idea to visit the tourist office as Erzurum had a ski resort so sure it would have a good tourist office?? Well there is but I realized that I needed to start learning Turkish for next time! Another funny experience. The town is a bit of a chaos and to find your way round is a bit of a puzzle in the beginning. We did find the tourist info eventually but when we got there we saw two men drinking Chai and about five desks un occupied. A the desk where the two men were sitting there were lot's of brochures but when we spoke to the men,they just looked at us and then started talking Turkish to us. We understood to have a seat when the one of the men pointed at it and thought that maybe someone was coming to speak to us and so we waited but no one came instead we were offered numerous cups of Chai and so we just flicked through the brochures for a little while to check out the pictures until we realized that it could take a very long time before anyone would come and speak to us... So we left to continue our mission. We flicked through the lonely planet for recommendations on accommodation. We found a sound place to kip, the Yeni Ornek. Basic but cheap, clean and spacious rooms and nice staff (no English either!). They do a fine Turkish breakfast with lot's of choice and opposite the Hekimoglu does great kebaps!!!

In the afternoon we decided to go for a bit of an explore. Patxi and Andoni went for a ski tour to Palandoken whilst Unai, Alberto and myself went for a drive around. Erzurum isn't the prettiest of places on the eye and has big contrasts. A lot of poverty around but look through this and you will find some jewels. The old town, the beautiful mosques, the amazing views of mountains and mountains all about 3000m plus and of course the people. They will be quite wary at first because they don't see many tourists but once they no it is all good they couldn't be more friendly and helpful. Before you know it you will be drinking Chai everywhere!

Our next stage, the travel to Kackar, our captivity by the Turkish army whilst climbing one of the peaks on the way will follow next week. Keep watching this space!

XX Christel

 

 

Euskalleria here I come!!!

Woopie it is all definite now! I have decided to move to Bilbao as per the 1st November. I am starting my own wee adventure travel business there with Unaitxu. I cant' wait to be together finally!

The Basque country is so beautiful and full of opportunities, I feel excited and good about it. I will miss my friends and after 10 years in Scotland I must admit it aint easy!! But I will continue to work together with all of you over here (so don't scrap me out of your books please!!) and hopefully get the Scots and the Brits to come and enjoy the Basque country for some of their outdoor adventures and to promote Scotland here in Bilbao and the rest of Easkalleria to get the Basque and Spanish over to bonny Scotland!!

 

More to come soon!!

Una neska oso, oso alaia!!!

Chamonix - Morzine - Holland - Bilbao - Bareges/ Mongie - Val D'Aran - Andorra - Baquera - Picos d'Europa - Scotland

Hyper stressed I was when I left Scotland in January to prepare for my BASI ISIA tech and do my assessment in Morzine. Mums condition was worsening, 2 days before I left the country my bedroom flooded, we discovered my water was seriously contaminated and getting more and more worried about the financial situation as I wouldn't be working for at least a month, all together not a good cocktail and it got worse as in the end I didn't return to Scotland until the middle of April. My mum died on the 10th February after seven years of battle against 3 tumors in the brain, I ended up not working all winter after having also worked very little during the summer, my house flooded twice in the time I was abroad, I got pretty seriously ill and I failed my BASI teach assessment.. Despite all of this there were still very good moments they just didn't feel like that at the time. But let's write about those good things!!!!

Beginning of January I left for Chamonix to meet up with Unai, Patxi and Jokin. I spend two days giving them some coaching on the slopes and after went off for some touring. The weather was stunning and although there wasn't as much snow as last year it was still pretty good for that time of the year. I took the boys to do Crochues-Berard. We had great weather, with stunning views. The day after we went to Morzine to check the slopes out for my assessment the following week. We skied without stopping and covered more snow than I have ever done before! The following day I didn't feel great and had a rest day whilst Unai and Patxi went over to ski Le Tour glacier and Jokin went of to Grand Montet.

 

 

The 2 weeks that followed I did my BASI ISIA tech assessment. Despite having a few days of torrential rain(!!!) the assessment was great. Tough but fun and inspiring. The most difficult thing was that my mum was so ill and I didn't knew whether I should be home or not. The day I past my assessment I phoned home to tell my mum and dad. Mum burst out in tears and told me it was time to come home now.

I went straight home and spend the next two weeks at my mum's side together with the rest of the family. Unai came over straight away and it was so good having him around. He played the guitar for my mum when she was restless and it calmed her down immediately even when she was in coma  it was incredible the effect it had on her. She died on the 10th of February. The funeral was a celebration of her life and her strength right until the last day she was conscious was inspired us all and gave us strength and helped us through the time that followed.Despite the special last moments together the two weeks before her dead and the time that followed after were incredibly difficult for us all. My mum had decided not to continue with the medication she received to keep the fluid in the brain down. This would mean that the fluid would slowly build up around her brain and compress the brain which would lead her to go in a coma. Entirely sure about how things would go nobody knew exactly. It was very brave of her to decide to stop. To all of us it looked daunting and scary not to know what would happen and how her body would react.

She was very tired and her body was eaten by the Dexamethason. Over the course of this past year she slowly had to give up all her independence and witnessed how her own body became a foreigner to her. It was painful for us but especially for her and my father. Because she was not mentally affected she experienced everything that happened to her without being able to help herself. It was hard, bloody dam hard! How she remained so positive until the end and so calm I do not understand. I think slowly she gave herself over and focused on the little things she could still enjoy like food, the grandchildren, the birds in the garden. My mum was a very independent person who loved gardening. As time went on she could do less and less until in the end she couldn't go to the toilet anymore on her own, neither walk. She went to all processes of grief you could imagine. From anger to frustration, lonelyness, intense sadness and in the end acceptance and relaxation. She was very calm the weeks before she died and she often smiled and said to us that all would be all right, we didn't have to worry, she wasn't scared of dying anymore, she was happy and loved us all and she kept on reassuring that all would be ok with us too. She would always be with us. She asked us the day she stopped her medication to get all her brothers and sisters round the next day to say by to them all and to celebrate life. So there we were the next day my mother in the middle...it was like a biggg birthday!! Everybody was drinking wine, crying, laughing, eating cake and when time came for them to go, she spoke to all individually. Then she waved all goodbye from her bed through the window as they walked passed. Two days later she started to drift away but on the third morning I had a dream that she was calling me and when I went downstairs there she was awake. she kept asking for us all to come down, my father, my brothers, Unai, it was incredible. She laughed and kept telling us she loved us. This lasted until midday and then she drifted into a permanent coma. For us this was the most difficult period because we were so helpless. The thought that she would get dehydrated and slowly her organs would shut down was shit and you could see that she suffered. You could see and hear it when she was in pain or when she had difficulty breathing and you could do nothing. It was scary at times. She also was aware of everything that went on around her. On the morning she died the home care told us it wouldn't be long and they said we should go and sit next to her bed. She lived for another ten minutes and we were all right by her side when she died. It wasn't scary, it was a privilege. My mum had organised her own funeral completely before she died. She had chosen her own coffin, she told us what the service needed to be like and the clothes she wanted to wear in her coffin had been hanging ready for nearly 6 months. She had asked me if I wanted to wash and dress her after she had died. And there I was, I just did it without feeling scared. I think I just felt love and respect for my mum, for her courage. It all happened over time but still so quick. It wasn't until weeks after that everything started to come to me. I keep having moments that I think about the moment just after she died and I had to wash her almost immediately. It went all like a rapid and only now time stops and I reflect and feel.

Her funeral was beautiful if you could call a funeral happy, then certainly hers was! It was white, and full of energy and love. People left crying and laughing and celebrating a life. There were many people speaking touching words. My older brother read out poem of a poet she loved, my younger told a joke...the only joke my mum knew and she kept telling you every time you saw her...and she could never finish it because she would be laughing so much. I did a reflection, a reflection on love. I didn't realize until after how appropriate it was as she was buried on Valentines day!!

I got really ill and felt very depressed and things only started to get better when I returned to Scotland. Also my dad got ill and both my brothers went through their own moments. And the truth is these moments keep coming.. in fact I found it more difficult at times now to deal with her dead than just before and after her funeral. Maybe because now it is all sinking in and it is only now I really have time to think about all that has happened properly.

After my mum's funeral I went to Bilbao with my dad and Angelique. We spend a week trying to relax and find time for ourselves. The weather was great and it was wonderful to be back with Unai. We laughed, cried, spoke about the beautiful times with my mum, about the difficult times of my mum.

        

Time came for Dad to go home and I was heading off to the Pyrenees to do some prep for my BASI ISIA teach.

In the Pyrenees I did some coaching for Unai's friends as bit of training for my up and coming assessment followed by a week touring in the Val d' Aran. unfortunately everything was just to much. I was so run down after all the emotions and difficulties of the past year that I just couldn't enjoy it and on top of it I got very ill with an infection during our touring in the Val D'Aran. I ended up in the hospital in Vielha. Then went straight back to Bilbao to try and recover and be ok for my assessment that was only a week later. I didn't get better. Instead I got more ill and my assessment was a nightmare. I ended up with an allergic reaction to the antibiotics and was back in the hospital on the Saturday after my assessment. I didn't pass but it didn't really matter as I was feeling so rubbish it was nothing I suppose in comparison with everything else that had happened during the year. Still it hurt... that's the honest truth.

 

Gavarnie and Val d'Aran touring

After my epic time on our way back we visited friends of Unai in Baqueira. Unai had to do a skiing entry assessment and he passed which was great. After a few days we went back to Bilbao. We spent a very short time at the house before heading on to the Picos for some final touring together. I felt a bit better and we had a great couple of days.

Some final days with Unaitxu and Haitz touring in the Picos

Time came to go back to Scotland. I was looking forward to it but had mixed feelings. Looked forward to see my friends, visit my house that  hadn't seen for over 4 months, back to work etc but it also meant another goodbye. It get's harder all the time. I am looking forward now to move to Bizkaia. Still a few months away but it will be so much better to be together, work on our projects together and not having to travel back and forward all the time and having to say bye.

 

 

Some other pictures of the end of the winter in Bizkaia.

Christel

A reflection

I don't quite know where to start or better said I don't know wether I should start at all. As this year has been so turbulent, sad and stressful I can't get myself overly motivated to write about it. However despite all the bad moments there were also many good ones even though I didn't experience them as such at the time as I really couldn't care less where I was or what I was doing towards the end of last summer and during the past winter. Many people have said to me how lucky I have been to be away so much in different countries, on different adventures etc but the only place I wanted to be really deep in my heart was at home with my family or working so that I felt I did something useful. I didn't work at all last winter and I probably should have spend more time with my family instead of being so stupidly driven to do more training, more assessments etc. I couldn't get myself to think that all my trips away weren't a holiday but were part of training and experience towards my assessments etc. I only was thinking of guilt all the time and never really knew for sure whether I had made the right decision or not at that particular time. One of my assessments I didn't even pass after all the training and effort. I got very ill on the lead up to it and during the assessment I got worse. I was in hospital twice. Probably completely run down and washed out after my mums funeral. On top of that I experienced the worst assessor and subsequently assessment I have ever done. But never mind, it is just an assessment and not the end of the world, true but it is a big cut in the good old finances of which I didn't really gain any positive experience. I always thought I was so positive and strong but this year I broke big style. Any little disturbance in my life this year felt like the biggest wall I would ever climb in my life and every wall no matter big or small I felt I would never be able to climb. Now nowhere near the top of many of my walls I am climbing though and that is a good thing!!

The family 4 months before mum died

I will write some positiveness on this blog, don't let me worry you or drag you down in my own doom and gloom but I have also realized that there is no such thing as always positive and always happy and so there is not point in pretending I am currently in that frame of mind. Probably so far the worst year out of my life. Well you might say there are many people that are a lo worse of than you, True again but I am not all these other worst people, I am Me and I have so my own problems. I found it hugely sad that I have done such amazing things this year, been to so many nice places, met the nicest bloke in the world but I didn't experience many sensations of joy. No matter how hard I tried I just felt depressed and wanted to do nothing but nothing at all. My first time this year I started to feel some moments of enjoyment again has been when I came back to the UK and started working again, probably as I started to feel useful and was starting to earn some pennies again, being able to spend time in my own environment again, being in my own doss between my own things and seeing my own friends again. Also my recent trip to Turkey I lived some good, enjoyable moments although I am know where near the positive, happy, smiley girl I used to be. I have been trying so bad to get back that sensation of really living and experiencing everything I do but for some reason most things I do these days feel more like an yet another day away without serious meaning. There is, well how will I describe it, maybe it is like no fulfillment.

The references in my life

Many people would call me ungrateful but I am not ungrateful of the things I have done this year and the things others have done for me, in fact it is more a feeling of guild towards all the people that are trying so hard to make me feel better and yet I am still so far away from being better, it is more like an up and down all the time. I you will continue reading, you will read about all those amazing adventures and about the illness and last precious moments of my mum and how lucky we were as a family to be together when my mum died. Everything full of love and support and yet still I feel without energy and quite depressed. I look at photos of a year and a half back and I am seriously wondering wether that's really me I am looking at. That smiley girl with a glow on her face and an expression of excitement and energy. I constantly feel on edge, I snap at the people I love most over the minutest things, I shout at people in on the road whilst I am the one that is driving like a maniac and so on. I often wonder myself whether this is normal or not. The only thing for myself I can say is that this wasn't the me that was a year and ago. Maybe not necessarily abnormal but a different, more serious me. There is not much to do other than accept the current situation and go with it, hopefully more positive and returning to that happy, cheery, energetic person that once was.

Mother and daughter

The Trip of Powder and Pack: Cantabric Coast to Bareges/Mongie to Andorra to Tignes to La Grave back to Pyrenees Mont Agut!!

The crossing of the couloir below the summit slope of Castro Valnera

For anyone that looks for undiscovered and untouched mountains to ski in, the Cantabric coast is the sweet spot to be. I knew that these mountains are great for mountaineering, climbing and walking but to see these mountains under white fluff with views to the sea added another dimension!

Mountains like Gorbea, Zalama, Pico de la Miel, Castro Valnera, Anboto are all classics that offer something to every level of ski mountaineer. Whether you want to ski rounded wide slopes or technical couloirs you can have it!

Cantabric Coast -  The Basque country

On my first day in Pais Basque we went for a warm up tour to Gorbea (1475m) although there was little chance of heat as it was a bitter day especially on the summit which had a fierce wind blowing! Gorbea is the main mountain in the province of Bizkai. In a direct line from the summit there are less than 40km to the sea. So if you fancy a surf you climb the mountain first and than go for a plunge in afternoon! It very much has a Scottish feel to it due to exposure.

 The summit cross of Gorbea

 

Fixing my bindings

...

There are many routes to climb this mountain but the following route is the best for a ski tour and describes the north east ascent. We drove from Bilbao to Zeanuri and took the mountain road up to Lanbreabe. We parked the car near the dam in the forest at 800m. You follow the tarmac track until you see the huts on the meadows of Aldaminapa. This area is often occupied by shepherds that look after their goats, sheep, horses and cows. The refuges belong to different mountain clubs and unfortunately are only open to members but you can camp if you are keen!

From the meadows of Aldaminapa you ascent the col of Aldamin (1250m) and continue to the summit. You have to be careful in bad weather because there are many hollows typical in mountains formed by limestone and in bad visibility it is very easy to end up in one! Take particular care on the 2nd part of the ascent to the col and to the summit as there is a big hollow on your left that has got some serious drop offs, cornices and very steep walls...take much care on descent..stay left away from edge.  The descent follows the same way as ascent but there are other options. If you like info send me an email.

On my second day we drove over the pass of El Cabrio to the village of San Peleyo. About 1 hr south west from Bilbao and about an 1.5 hr east of the Picos.  We choose to climb a mountain named Zalama which lies on the border between the Provinces of Burgos and Bizkai. A rounded mountain, in a very wild area, covered in trees with beautiful views to the Sierra Salvada range.

The lower slopes of Zalama with the Sierra Salvada range in background

Views to the Sierra Salvada range

We started from the village of San Peleyo, a place that hasn't changed to 21st century life yet. The local shop functions as the local bar and is a gathering point for the locals. The village is very old and only has few habitants. Our ascent went onto the south flank through a forest of birch. Once on the open hillside we thought we saw a wolf which later was confirmed by the locals as they told us that over the last few months they had sighted 3 and 21 lambs were killed by wolf recently. The whole ascent is very gradual. The total ascent didn't take more then 2.5hrs and as the snow and skiing was so good that we descended into the forest, went back up again and descended back to the village. The descents on the south side are easy angled and open hillside plus forest. However you can descent on the north side which has some challenging couloirs. If you feel up for more continue touring to west over the whole range.

The summit of Zalama

Haitz ...our very own mascot and nose for the best snow!!!

Asier, Ekaitz, Jokin and me....half of the team

 

Unaitxu maitea

Patxi

 

Christeltxu

In the evening we drove to Espinosa the los Monteros, an ancient village that is the entrance to Lunada range where there is an old now unused ski station. Just before we got to Lunada we stopped the cars on the left at the entrance of a valley called Bernatxo. Under a starry sky we were clearing the entrance of the track to park the cars. Then we skinned for an hour or so under a clear starry sky to Andoni's hut, Valnera, which was covered under a good pack of fresh fluff.. I was here last year in October to climb some of the mountains in the region. This time it was even more beautiful.

Valnera

After a good catch up, log fire and food we headed off to bed to wake up to the most amazing day! Andoni had got up early to pick up Peli, another girl that joint us. Finally.. The first girl I have met that has come out on the hills with these guys! They keep telling me I need to bring over mountain girls from my part of the world! So girls you all have an invitation.

The team: Aitor, Andoni, Peli, Christel, Unai, Patxi

Our objective for the day was Castro Valnera (1718m) and Pico de la Miel but we only did Castro Valnera in the end enjoying absolutely amazing conditions and stunning views. The views from the sea to the north and the limestone cliffs are amazing!

We skinned up from the cabana to the summit and followed the ridge connecting to Pico de La Miel until we were above the descend couloir. A wicked descend of the couloir followed ..... a lot of smiling faces! Once back to the cabana we had lunch and skied back out to the cars! what a great start of winter for the Basque mountain community!

 

The sea and limestone cliffs in the background from the summit of Castro Valnera

   

The Pyrenees

The next day we had arranged to meet up with more friends to head over to the Pyrenees. We all met in Luz St Saveur in the evening and made plans for the next day. There were tons of snow and the forecast was to be for a clear morning followed by more snow later in the day.... We woke up to winter wonder powder land!!! Drove over to Bareges and once in the car park discovered another lot of Basque friends that had driven over in their camper vans to rip it up. We ended up with a bunch of 10 people in the end riding in an empty area of powder and fluff and more powder ..trailing fresh lines every run!!

The day after it snowed and it snowed until it cleared and we did just more and more sweet local secret off-piste in snow till our waste!!

   

     

Andorra

After our trip in the Pyrenees it was time to get serious and get training. We headed over to Andorra to ski the piste and get into fast, carvy and hardpack mode. a little strange after all the free ride. Andorra also was loaded with snow and after a snowy morning all cleared and we skied on empty pistes generating miles and miles!

 

Tignes

Matilda..the camper van was going fairly strong until we continued our journey to Tignes to do a weeks GS training with R21. We arrived with temperatures of minus 17 and Matilda froze...the water, the gas, the battery, the calification, she just wasn't happy. Despite all we managed to stay warm and kept our selves coffeed up and fed with a mini camping gas.

We had snow to die for in Tignes.... 3 days of blue sky followed by 2 days of snow to finish of with sunshine and powder on the last day. By this time I was pretty washed out..my knees were done in, my body craved for a normal bed and a warm house and just a bit of sleep! At the end of the week Unai and I watched our performance on video and I was terribly embarrassed...I have got a very long way to go before I will ever look like a professional on the front of racing.

All in all it was good as ever with Dougie and Giles of R21. Highly recommended if you are looking for GS, slalom or bumps.

 

    

 

La Grave

After Tignes we thought it would be a shame to drive back to the Basque country whit the conditions we had in the Alps so we drove to La Grave instead...and which amazing day we had!! We had heard that there was a lot of snow that way and as we arrived in the middle of the night we already got the feel...Trees covered with a thick blanket of white..cars completely buried along side the road and a night view of The Meije under a starry sky! We woke up in the morning with blue sky and cream! The avalanche risk was at red alert and the telepherique wasn't open yet...La Grave and surrounding villages were like goast towns but for us it was perfect. We spend the morning driving around buying maps and taking pictures. In the afternoon we went up to the village of Ventelon parked the car with views to the Meije and skinned up pas the petit village of les Clots to a little peak called la Cote Rouge. This area on the other side of the valley of la Meije is absolutely brilliant for ski touring and we definitely will be back here. The views from the summit were indescribable!

We hoped to do a tour to Pic Blanc du Galbier the next day but the wind started picking up fiercely during the night and the next day it was virtually impossible to even leave the van! We decided to drive back to Bareges to see what conditions we would encounter there and hope for a good last day on the skis!

 

                

 

Our last day the ascent of Mont Agut near Bareges in the Pyrenees

We were told there was bad weather on the way to the Pyres. However we checked the forecast and it said it would be clearing the next day so in good faith we drove down.. We arrived about 3 am at the village of Betpouey near Bareges and woke up at 10am with the perfect picture!!! Blue sky and fresh snow!! Unai was super excited and we were going for a skin up Mont Agut (2157m). I was super tired and despite the absolute great conditions wasn't very motivated but just being out there was a privilege. We just made it to below the summit and then the weather started closing in so we turned round and skied according to Unai the best slope of the mountain.

In the evening we met up with friends of Unai that live in Luz and are pistieres in Bareges, Didi and Benji. We had an evening of guitar and travel tales. They were going to ski the Pic de Midi the next day and how we envied them as it was another day in paradise but we had to get home. And to be honest I was ready for rest.... Especially after living for 2.5 weeks in a VW camper van..great in many ways but a girl is a girl after all.

 

   

 

If you like any information on the areas, routes etc of the above please don't hesitate to contact me.

Keep checking the site for updates on future adventures!

This winter more Alps plus Ski touring in Turkey and Morocco to follow.

Remember people....Carpe Diem , 

Cherio Chris